We had checked out Dennis the Granadian Gardener's recommendation for the snorkeling trip from the Bitter End, but it just didn't seem right. The boat was a big, three-decked motorized ferry, and it went over to Anegada just once a week. We figured there would be a bunch of tourists on it and we'd be herded around like not-so-cunning cattle. So instead, we opted to charter a sailboat called Spice, leaving out of Leverick bay at 8:30am and returning at 5pm or so, depending on the wind. It was the right choice.

The Spice is a 41' sloop with a crew of two. Joe, the captain, is a young sailor who grew up in Montreal, Canada, spent a number of years in Switzerland, and now lives on Virgin Gorda in a house within walking distance of the yacht basin at Leverick. His mate (at least on the boat, not sure about otherwise) is Eva, also young but experienced. Both were gracious, intelligent, informative, and professional. Upon arriving at Spice, Joe asked us to deposit our shoes in a basket (it was the last time we'd need them until we returned that evening) and then board the sailboat. There were only two other passengers besides us, a pair of Swiss visitors named Robert and Craig.

Joe and Eva expertly maneuvered the big yacht out of the harbor, and then raised the mainsail. They apologized for the lack of wind and told us it was extremely rare to have so little wind this time of year. Although we could have crossed the 15 miles or so to Anegada in record time last week when the trade winds were howling, today Joe fired up the little inboard engine and we tootled for about two hours over open water before spotting the low, flat coral island of Anegada.

We had chosen to visit Anegada rather than some of the other surrounding islands, partly because it was a little farther away, and partly because it was different. Virgin Gorda, Tortola, and most of the other British Virgins are all volcanic islands, which explains the tall peaks and rocky shorelines. Anegada, on the other hand, is the visible part of a gigantic coral reef, the third largest barrier reef in the world, and is only 25-feet above sea level at its highest point. The island has an interesting history, with over 250 shipwrecks on its treacherous reef (the tourism board says 350, but Joe knows the old diver who personally discovered 180 of them, and he says he's only able to document about 250 in the archives). It also is a unique habitat, with critters like the Anegada Iguana, Flamingos, and Lobster, not to mention the couple hundred residents who live and work on an island with no schools, no grocery stores, and very few buildings of any kind.

Joe sailed into the one and only sanctioned anchorage on the island. The government protects the reef from damage by requiring that only experienced boat captains sail through the tricky reef, and even they can dock only in one area with no anchors allowed. As Eva was snagging the mooring and tying off to it, the tour boat from Bitter End (the same one we opted out of) arrived with every seat filled, carrying at least 40 or 50 tourists. They looked hot and crowded, but anxious to explore the island. Eva helped the four of us (Joe stayed with the boat) into the rubber dinghy and we sped over to the dock to beat the crowd.

The nice beaches and snorkeling, not to mention the restaurant where we'd eat lunch, were all on the opposite end of the island. Eva told us to expect a 30-minute wait for a "taxi" to Loblolly Bay, and with the 50 or so tourists headed our way, we thought that sounded about right. To our surprise and relief, Eva said a few words to the local folks who were gathered under a thatched-roof shelter, then hugged an older, gray-haired gentleman and joked with him a bit. Before we knew what was happening, the five of us hopped aboard a big caravan (that's British for truck) with covered seats in the back. We took off to Loblolly Bay with a mostly empty shuttle, waving at the hot, bewildered crowd from Bitter End who were just now descending on the thatched hut to arrange their own transportation.

Ten miles of jolting, dusty, rutty dirt roads later, we arrived at Loblolly. Eva immediately introduced us to the staff at the Big Bamboo restaurant. She found out when the Bitter End folks were scheduled to eat and then we chose a different time and pre-ordered our lunch so that it would be ready at exactly 1pm. I ordered Snapper, and Kathy, of course, went for the lobster. Eva showed us the beach, told us where the best snorkeling was, and then rode back to the other side of the island with the gray-haired gentleman, leaving us to explore one of the most beautiful 11-mile stretches of white beach we had seen on the islands.

The reef was fantastic. Kathy and I snorkeled up and down it for two hours, swimming all the way out to the breakers, where we saw more stingrays, a nurse shark, and a sizable barracuda, in addition to the normal reef fishes like Parrotfish, Sergeant Majors, and Blue Tangs. There were deep coral caves (which we did not enter), blue and purple sea fans, and lots of living coral of all colors. We also saw the one and only flounder big enough to eat, but unfortunately I had not brought my "little sword" for fear of being made fun of by the other tourists.

When we arrived at our assigned table for lunch (they were picnic tables arranged under a big open-air patio), the waitress said, "We've been looking all over for you, mon, to tell you we have no lobsters today." Kathy was crushed. I thought I saw a tear when she had to settle for fried shrimp instead. But the food was really good. Nothing fancy, but it was served with a family-style bowl of island rice (with raisins and black-eyed peas) which was really delicious, and some cold, tasty coleslaw. It was an all Spice table, with the two of us and the two Swiss tourists from the boat. Turns out, Robert was an old friend of Joe's. They used to work together in Switzerland. Craig, who was considerably younger and who appeared to be recovering from a very successful party the night before, was Robert's business partner. They had just started a new business, working with kids in the Swiss Alps while their parents skied. Robert had been to Virgin Gorda several times to visit Joe and Joe's parents (who also live on the island). They told us all about Switzerland and we told them about Texas and we all had a very pleasant lunch. By the time we'd finished, we had the place mostly to ourselves, since all the Bitter End folks had tromped back to the beach. We hung around (literally) in the shaded hammocks stretched among the Sea Grapes until the shuttle arrived to take us back to the boat.

Back aboard Spice, Joe informed us that even the little breeze we'd had earlier in the day had now disappeared altogether, so it would be a long trip home. Luckily, Eva had made a batch of rum punch, which we all eagerly sampled. By the time we crossed the halfway point to Virgin Gorda, we were raising the jib and singing sea shanties loud enough to frighten the gulls. Kathy eventually retired to the "king of the world seat" at the very bow of the boat, where she sat with her feet dangling over the anchor and gazing into the crystal blue waters most of the way back. I sprawled out on top of the crew's cabin in the shade of the sail and nappied like nobody's business.

Upon arriving back at Leverick Bay, all six of us shook hands and hugged. We invited them all over to the Pink House for a Cuba Libre, and we drove back over to South Sound and home.