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Virgin Gorda
Day 14

The Granadian Gardener had mentioned that there was a ferry to the island of Anegada on Wednesday mornings leaving from Gun Creek Bay, which is a little working wharf close to the Pink House. We got up and drove through the four cattle gates to check it out, thinking we might want to go snorkeling on Horseshoe Reef in the next week or two. There was indeed a bunch of locals hopping on ferries every half-hour, but they were all going to the Bitter End Yacht Club, which is actually on Virgin Gorda, but in a place accessible only by boat. Talking to some of the local folks, turns out the snorkeling trip to Anegada leaves from Bitter End, which was good to know.

After a short trip down to Spanish Town to find fishing tackle (more on that later), we decided to explore a part of the island we hadn't seen yet. Mango Bay resort is close to one of the most beautiful stretches of sandy beaches on the island, Savannah Beach. We ate lunch at the restaurant at Mango Bay, which is called Georgio's Table, a very swank place for VG. We got there around 3pm, so there were very few guests at that time. The bay was filled with what looked like big fishing boats, all anchored near the beach, and dozens of people roamed the decks of the boats, waded in the water, and engaged in various water sports like water-skiing, wakeboarding, and sail boarding. It was really a happening place. When Grant, our waiter, came over, Kathy ordered Crepelles Italia (crepes with mozzarella and spinach) and I got a pizza. Once again, Kathy made the right pick, as her crepes were really great. The pizza was good too though. We sat around watching the boat people, eating our food and drinking banana coladas (Jim) and bushwhackers (Kathy).

After an hour or so, we were the only guests in the place. I asked Grant what all the boats were about, was there some kind of fishing tournament going on? He said, "No mon, eets the Puerto Ricans. They come here every year at this time, park their boats in the bay and party." I said they looked like fishing boats of some kind, and he replied, "No mon, eets just the kind of boats the they like to drive. Listen and you can hear the boom boxes."

At one point, Grant climbed down the rocks near the water and came back a few minutes later with a plastic bag full of shells of some sort. I stopped him and asked what they were. "They are whelks, mon. Veeerry good to eat -- a real delicacy on the island. Tastes like escargot and sells for $10 a pound, mon." We had seen these little critters on the rocks around the Pink House so I eagerly grilled him on how they were prepared. Another foraging opportunity for later...

After our extended lunch, we headed back down to Savannah Beach to do some snorkeling. The reef there turned out to be just gorgeous, with lots of living reef creatures like fan coral, brain coral, and tons of fish. We saw a huge school of Blue Tang, foot-long neon blue tropical fish, that allowed me to swim with them for a long time. The fine sandy beach was wonderful for a change compared to the rocks and coral surrounding the Pink House.




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